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A Book at the Intersection of Fire and Heat

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Spicy Korean sauces provide the grilling inspiration in a new cookbook from Bill Kim, the Chicago chef and restaurateur.

CreditSonny Figueroa/The New York Times

You will find many clever ideas in the new Korean barbecue book from the Chicago chef and restaurateur Bill Kim. But there is a caveat. The subtitle, “Master Your Grill in Seven Sauces,” means business, so one or more of those sauces is called for in just about every recipe. You can get away with exchanging them (so you don’t need all seven on hand), but they’re all very good. His basic sweet-hot Korean barbecue sauce and the thick, garlicky “magic paste” are the most useful. Mr. Kim emigrated from South Korea with his family in 1977, when he was 9. He went to cooking school and worked at Charlie Trotter’s before opening UrbanBelly and BellyQ in Chicago. The book introduces Korean flavors in recipes like baba ganoush, pimento cheese and tacos al pastor. Gochujang and sambal oelek are two of his essential pantry ingredients. There’s also a fat section about using leftovers.

“Korean BBQ: Master Your Grill in Seven Sauces” by Bill Kim with Chandra Ram (Ten Speed Press, $28)

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Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks.

 



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